Hi, I’m Sophie! I’m a Nashville-based musician, artist, and naturalist.

Camino del Norte: Easter Saturday

Camino del Norte: Easter Saturday

April 19, 2025

The flights from Huntsville to Madrid were smooth and uneventful. Once I reached Madrid, I took a blue bus from the airport to the bus station and then took another 8-hour bus trip to San Sebastián. It was a long two days, but I had so much excitement and adrenaline that I barely noticed it.

When I reached San Sebastián, I had forty-five minutes to locate the train station and buy a ticket to Irún, where I would start the Camino tomorrow. Fortunately my Vodafone plan worked, and I used Google Maps to navigate the beautiful resort city of San Sebastián.

Grateful to arrive in San Sebastian after 30 hours of travel

Although I was on the move, I found a few moments to enjoy the sunset over the Santa Catalina Bridge. I saw my first fellow pilgrim and wished her a buen Camino—the first of hundreds of times I would say that phrase.

Evening in San Sebastian

When I reached the train station, rows of kiosks and faregates bewildered my eyes. This was a part of the trip that both confused and overwhelmed me, so I walked up to a man at the counter.

“Excuse me. I would like to go to Irún,” I said.

“There is a train leaving at 19:00,” he said. “Three euros.”

I used the five euro bill that Andrew had given me from his trip to Spain last summer, received my ticket, and confidently strode toward a faregate with the other people. When a kind teenager saw that I was struggling with my ticket, he turned around, left his friends, and made sure I got through the gate. I can’t tell you how much I appreciated that!

A night stroll through the town of Irún on my way to Hotel Aitana

When the train reached Irún, there was still a twenty-minute walk to the hotel I had booked a month ago. I knew this, and fortunately it was not yet fully dark. My legs began to feel slow and heavy, but I did not stop walking until I reached the hotel.

The hotel was also a bar, and it was a Saturday night. As I made my way to the front desk, I had to squeeze my way between barstools and tall men.

¡Una peregrina!” laughed some of them, loudly.

I didn’t like it, but my hiking boots made me feel more confident. The clerk at the desk was very nice. He gave me a key and stamped my credencial (pilgrim passport) since tomorrow was Easter and he would not be there. Using my phone flashlight, I made my way upstairs and found my room. It was dreadfully hot in there, and knob on the heater dial was broken so that I could not turn it down. So, I opened a window to let the room cool off, but there were two chicos outside smoking and joking below my window.

Unsure of what to do, I left the window slightly open, made sure the blinds were closed, prayed that the heater wouldn’t catch the floor on fire, and somehow went right to sleep.

Camino del Norte Day 1: Irún to San Sebastián

Camino del Norte Day 1: Irún to San Sebastián

Camino del Norte: Leaving on Good Friday

Camino del Norte: Leaving on Good Friday

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