Camino del Norte Day 36: Abadín to Vilalba
May 25, 2025
11.86 miles | 19.08 km
It was a slower walk today to Vilalba—only 11 miles. The road was so easy that I felt like I had only just begun when I walked into Vilalba at 12:30.
Getting close to Santiago
As I was smelling the roses from a particularly fragrant archway, a bloom dropped to the ground. I picked it up and braided it into my hair like a crown and wore it around the rest of the morning.
My flower “crown” and a milestone featuring the golden arrow and yellow scallop shell, symbols of the Camino
Once I reached Vilalba, I stopped at a little juice bar and had the most refreshing smoothie drink and tostada con aciete (toast with olive oil). All the juice drinks on the menu looked sooo good!
Next I went to EBOS Obradoiro Doce—an elegant, high-end sort of pastelería. The initial reason I stopped there was because I was attracted to the round lettering of the sign, but as soon as I walked in, I was enamored. ✨ All sorts of delectable cakes, breads, and pastries sat behind the crystal glass, each one delicately prepared. I had a San Marcos torta—A traditional Spanish cake made of Genoese sponge cake, layers of whipped cocoa and whipped cream, topped with caramelized custard, whipped cream, and the tiniest dark chocolate bar I had ever seen. The cutlery was thoughtfully presented in a small ceramic jar. I also had a small cortado; in total, the experience cost €3.10 (3.63 USD).
“That’s it, I’m moving to Spain,” I thought.
San Marcos cake and a cortado at EBOS Obradoiro Doce in Vilalba
After I checked into Albergue Castelano and picked out a bed, I decided to go out again to explore the city. A rollicking music event seemed to be happening nearby; I could hear the band from the albergue’s open windows. After walking for about a kilometer, I located the source of the music at Piscina Municipal de Vilalba. I stopped for a few minutes to listen and enjoy the energy of the dancing and fuschia lights, but soon I was seeking the trees once more.
Walking along the Río Madalena on my way to find the music
Using the Strava app, I found a series of lovely trails along the Río Madalena. The path took me past a hopping pond of frogs, a glittering, deep stream, and an enchanted forest with ivy-covered rocks.
As I walked the quiet paths along the river, I thought of Psalm 23:
The Lord is my shepherd;
I shall not want.
He makes me to lie down in green pastures;
He leads me beside the still waters.
He restores my soul;
He leads me in the paths of righteousness
For His name’s sake.
Psalm 23:1-2
This statue reminded me of Mary and Joseph.
In the evening, I went to one of the restaurants the kind hospitalera recommended. As soon as I walked in, I saw my friends, Joe and Ángel, sitting down to dinner. They invited me to join them, and I shared a most pleasant evening. I learned that Joe is a professional travel guide who makes YouTube videos about the Australian bush. Ángel didn’t speak very much English, but he put in a joke or two every now and then.
“What is your reason for hiking the Camino?” I asked.
“To honor my father, who would be 100 years old this year.”
His eyes glistened with tears as he told me, and suddenly, mine did too. The Camino has that effect on people.
After dinner, the three of us walked back to the albergue together. Tomorrow Joe and Ángel would go to Abadin, and I would go to A Lagoa, the opposite direction. I was grateful for their company.
