Camino del Norte Day 14: Rest Day in Santander

May 3, 2025

“Sofía! What are you doing up so early?” asked Ángel as I stepped out the door of his hostel.

“Going to a coffee shop to write,” I said.

It was only 7:00 AM, but that was still scandalously early.

“Without even asking my recommendation?” asked Ángel in a hurt tone of voice.

“What’s your recommendation?” I asked.

“Cafe Amarella. It’s one of my favorites. I think you will really like it too. Go down the road, but stay on the left hand side when you cross the street. Then you will see it on the left.”

“Thank you,” I said.

“Thank you for asking my recommendation!” he said with a brilliant, winsome smile.

Amarella Gran Café was a warm, inviting place with open doors and glistening windows. Christian music was playing over the radio when I walked in, and the camareros immediately took notice of me with gracious courtesy. The doors had just opened, and I could smell fresh bread from the back.

I had the most delicious vegetarian tortilla—a thick, substantial omelette made with eggs, potatoes, onion, and tomato. Coffee was served with a small slice of lemon pound cake, and I reordered coffee just so I could have another piece of cake with it.

Vegetarian tortilla at Amarella Gran Café

Around 9:00 AM, shops began to open and the streets were beginning to come alive. I walked to the market square in search of a pair of shoes to wear around town. My muddy hiking boots were neither practical nor pretty for navigating the sophistication of Santander. I found a pair of lightweight, white shoes that were suitable and took myself on a walking tour of the city. The day was before me, and the possibilities sang.

The capital of the region of Cantabria, Santander is known for being a safe, elegant, and quiet port city. In 1941 it suffered a devastating fire that left thousands homeless, but miraculously only one person died.

I followed a group of nuns to this bakery. It was extraordinary.

Centro Botin Modern Art Museum

My “local disguise” outfit

Meeting Jošt

As I was walking along the crowded beach promenade that evening, I noticed a man about my age walking the same direction toward the lighthouse. Although he was not wearing boots or a backpack, his long, easy strides, sandals, and journal under his arm gave him away as a pilgrim. For some unexplainable reason, I had a very strong urge to go talk to him.

I followed for a bit but then I lost him in the crowd. I prayed that I would find him again, but time passed and I decided to explore the rocks and pier instead. When I got as far as I could walk and had almost perished the thought of finding him again, I noticed the same guy sitting on a bench and getting up to leave.

“Excuse me, are you hiking the Camino?” I asked.

“Yes, how did you know?” he said with surprise.

I realized that I, too, was in street clothes, not at all dressed like a pilgrim. The only thing remotely Camino about me was my silver cross necklace.

“I noticed your sandals and your journal,” I said.

“Good observation,” he said. “Are you?”

“Yes,” I said.

As we walked back to Santander along the crowded sidewalks, I learned that Jošt is from Slovenia. This is his last day on the Camino, and tomorrow he is flying back to Bilbao and then to his hometown. After the usual Camino smalltalk, he ventured to ask the question that I was planning to ask:

“What is your objective for hiking the Camino?”

“Do you want the safe answer or the real answer?” I asked.

“The most fragile answer,” he said.

“I am hiking the Camino for spiritual reasons—because I want to hear the voice of God,” I said.

He paused, and there was something indescribable in his expression.

“You are the only person I have met on the Camino who is hiking for spiritual reasons,” he said.

I learned that Jošt used to be extremely religious in his church, but now he was searching for something more real.

“Just before this I was feeling discouraged that I hadn’t met anyone who was walking for their faith,” he said.

“I love my church,” I said. “And I think about Jesus as my friend. I pray that you find a good community in a real relationship with Him.”

We talked more about churches, the Bible, religion, and politics on the rest of the walk back to central Santander. Although we did not agree on a lot of topics, we were both very respectful and considerate to listen to the other’s point of view. When we got back, I thanked him for the conversation, and he thanked me likewise.

“Nobody has ever just walked up and started talking to me like that,” he said. “Do you do that all the time?”

“Sometimes,” I said.

“That takes a lot of bravery. Respect.”